Many people can imagine the romantic vision of a Montana ranch β vast valleys, cold streams, and snow-capped mountains. However, few understand what happens when the cattle leave those picturesque pastures. Surprisingly, most of them donβt stay in Montana.
Even in a state with nearly twice as many cows as people, only about 1 percent of the beef purchased by Montana households is raised and processed locally, according to estimates from Highland Economics, a consulting firm. As is true across the rest of the country, many Montanans consume beef sourced from as far away as Brazil.
Hereβs a typical journey for a cow that starts out on Montana grass: It is usually bought by one of the four dominant meatpackers β JBS, Tyson Foods, Cargill, or Marfrig β which process 85 percent of the countryβs beef. The meat is then transported by major distributors like Sysco or US Foods, companies with a combined value of over $50 billion. Finally, it is sold at large retailers like Walmart or Costco, which together account for roughly half of Americaβs food dollars. Ranchers who want to break free from this system to sell their beef locally face significant challenges.
βThe beef packers have a lot of control,β said Neva Hassanein, a University of Montana professor who studies sustainable food systems. βThey tend to influence a tremendous amount throughout the supply chain.β For the nationβs ranchers, whose profits have dwindled over time, she said, βItβs kind of a trap.β
Cole Mannix is attempting to escape that trap.
Mr. Mannix, 40, has a philosophical bent, once considering becoming a Jesuit priest. Like his family members since 1882, he grew up ranching: baling hay, helping birth calves, and guiding cattle into the high country on horseback. He wants to ensure that the next generation, the sixth, has the same opportunity.
In 2021, Mr. Mannix co-founded Old Salt Co-op, a company aiming to revolutionize how people buy meat.
While many Montana ranchers sell their calves to the multibillion-dollar industrial machine before they are a year old, Old Saltβs livestock never leave the companyβs hands. The cattle are raised by Old Saltβs four member ranches, slaughtered and processed at its own meatpacking facility, and sold through its ranch-to-table restaurants, community events, and website. The ranchers, who have ownership in the company, profit at every stage.
This approach, where a company controls various elements of its supply chain, is known as vertical integration. Few small meat businesses attempt this due to the significant upfront capital required.
βItβs a scary time,β Mr. Mannix said, referring to the companyβs considerable debt. βWeβre really trying to invent something new.β
However, he added, βNo matter how risky it is to start a business like Old Salt, the status quo is riskier.β
Old Salt could have simply opened a meat processing facility, as some ranchers have done, and avoided the complexities of running restaurants and events. (In fact, much national attention has focused on processing facilities: The White House recently committed $1 billion to independent meat processors, citing the major meatpackersβ lack of competition.)
But Mr. Mannix said that wouldnβt address the other issue ranchers face: difficulty accessing distributors and customers. βIt doesnβt matter if you have a nice processing facility if you canβt sell the product,β he said. βYou canβt rebuild the food system by just throwing a bunch of money at one component of that food system.β
Old Salt is his attempt to rebuild the entire system.
People are taking notice. βOld Salt is a beacon,β said Robin Kelson, executive director of Abundant Montana, a nonprofit promoting local food. βThey are showing the rest of us that by stacking enterprises, by collaborating in creative ways, it is possible to make the system work.β
On a recent Saturday, downtown Helenaβs newest restaurant, the Union, was bustling. A wood-fired grill sizzled as diners enjoyed steaks and short ribs; up front, a butcher case displayed bacon and breakfast sausages, all from Old Saltβs member ranches.
This restaurant-slash-butchery is Old Saltβs latest venture. It joins the Outpost, a burger stand inside a 117-year-old bar, and the Old Salt Festival, a food- and music-filled celebration of sustainable agriculture at the Mannix ranch in late June, now in its second year. These ventures are in addition to the companyβs meat processing facility and subscription meat program.
Old Saltβs comprehensive approach aims to rebuild the food system from the ground up, demonstrating that with creativity and collaboration, it is possible to challenge and change the status quo in the meat industry.
Matt Pinner is a dedicated journalist for WVPrepBB.com, specializing in USA and crime news. With a keen eye for detail and a passion for uncovering the truth, Matt brings timely and insightful reporting to his readers. His work on WVPrepBB.com keeps the community informed and engaged with the latest developments in national news and criminal justice.
